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An Adelaide Hills Secret

Dave lets us in on an Adelaide hills well kept secret…

Through the undulating hills of Adelaide and up a dirt track lies one of the true hidden secrets of this mysterious wine region.  A single, modest sign announces this humble producer only a few kilometers from the largely unknown town of Gumeracha. Protero is the winery name and soulful quality is the game…

The cellar door itself could easily be confused for the local fresh produce market with crates upon crates of quality produce neatly stacked within the pristine iron clad shed. An unassuming Frank greets me at the door with a disarmingly charming flash of pearly whites. Frank and his wife Rosemary bought this property to grow fresh produce and as a way of fostering a ‘quiet’ retirement, yet his lifestyle is anything but. Frank’s care and meticulously kept vineyards and grounds are apparent even from a distance. He is one of those rare vignerons who has a unique affinity with the land. All his produce (including his wine) is 100% organic/ biodynamic and the sheer quality of the fruit shines in the final wines. This is wine of true rustic soul, the effortless polish of the wines leaving me gobsmacked.

Protero Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills (Gumeracha), 2007
An unoaked example of a modern Chardonnay, this wine is generous in ways that other examples of unoaked chardonnay can only contemplate. Round and offering but with some balancing acid throughout, aromas of ripe stone fruit, nashi pear, melon and minerals build in the glass. The palate is creamy, with some clean purity but without the tautness one could expect. A very ‘now’ wine that shows what unoaked chardonnay is all about.

Protero Merlot, Adelaide Hills (Gumeracha), 2006
A rare example of 100% Merlot as most Merlots on the market contain a smattering of cabernet for structure. This is an enchanting wine that is honest and giving. Aromas of spicy earth, wild blackberry jam, violets and undergrowth burst forth. The palate is unctuously round and velvety with a complex charm. Unfiltered and unfined, this is the sort of Merlot that converts the non-drinkers of this variety.

BUY ONLINE!


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Orange Wine Region

Orange is a wine region that continues to improve and is today one of Australia’s most exciting wine regions. Every time I visit I notice an improvement in the quality of wine. The cool climate and volcanic soils of the region are well suited to viticulture and a range of varieties and styles are emerging from the region.

Orange is the highest wine region in Australia with vines extending from 600m to 1,100 meters. The extinct volcano Mt Canobolas dominates the region and is responsible for much of the soil composition.

The region is a true cool climate with snow and frost in the winter, golden autumns and sunshine in summer. Rainfall is good during the growing season and the multitude of hills and aspects show good potential for the development of different terroirs.

There are a number of potential sub-regions and climates in Orange. The main difference is that of altitude. The higher the altitude the cooler the vineyard with higher sites focusing primarily on cooler varieties such as Pinot Noir and aromatic whites. As you move lower grapes such as Cabernet, Chardonnay and Merlot can ripen fully. The vineyards below 800 meters are in many ways quite different to the central vineyards being much warmer; here Shiraz is able to ripen regularly.

The Wines
Here is a selection of some of my recent favourites…

Brangayne ‘Tristan’ Cabernet Blend 2009
(Received Top Gold as the best red blend in the 2011 Boutique Wine Awards) 

Brangayne Shiraz 2007
(94 Points – James Halliday)

Cargo Road Zinfandel 2009
(Big, rich and juicy)

Canobolas-Smith Cabernets 1991
(Only a few bottles left)


Posted in Articles & Reviews

Funky pinot at a great price!

Diamond Creek Estate is one of our great finds of the year last year. This is not to be confused with Diamond Valley Vineyards in the upper reaches of the Yarra Valley. Boutique is hardly the word. The estate is situated in the cool Southern Highland area of New South Wales. The vineyard is established at 680 m on rich basalt soil, the north-facing slope being relatively frost-free.

The 15 acres of vines are subject to intensive management being, hand pruned and leaf-plucked as required to produce intense premium cool climate fruit for great wines.

The varieties produced are Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. Our favourite is the 7 year old  2006 Pinot Noir. It still has the freshness of ripe cherry and strawberry fruit of a young wine but with some forest floor characters. The palate is full bodied with intense fruit flavours and soft lingering tannins which give a velvety smooth finish.

Too easy to drink on a Sunday afternoon with seared salmon, smoked duck and chicken salads. Yummy. BUY ONLINE TODAY…


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Does McLaren Vale have a style?

I was fortunate to be asked to visit McLaren Vale to a ‘Meet the Maker’ event as part of an educational event. As a group we were asked that question. “Does McLaren Vale Shiraz have a style”.

I used to think of McLaren Vale as an amorphous wine growing area by the sea south of Adelaide where just about any grape variety could be grown, maybe with the exception of pinot noir.

In fact the wine makers of McLaren Vale have divided the region into 5 subregions with differing climate, soil types and native vegetation.

The following description was supplied by the McLaren Vale Grape, Wine and Tourism Association.

Blewitt Springs / Clarendon Named after the townships of Blewitt Springs and Clarendon. This sub-region is the furthest from the sea and has the highest altitude, most rain and coolest winters. Blewitt Springs is characterized by deep sandy soils.

Seaview The steep hills of North Eastern McLaren Vale are referred to as Seaview.  The soils in this region are highly variable from red earth clay on limestone and sand on marly limestone to grey loam on clay. The common factor is the thin layer of topsoil, resulting frequently in low yields and low vigour. Hill tops in the Seaview sub-region experience warm nights and cool afternoon sea breezes while valleys experience cold air drainage off the range as it flows towards the sea at night.

Willunga South from the township of McLaren Vale, the hills flatten to a gentle slope heading toward the sea. This area is known as the Willunga Flats. The soils in this area are Gilgai or grey clay over limestone with pockets of red earth on limestone. The cold air drains across the flats to the sea.

McLaren Flat As the name suggests, McLaren Flat is the sprawling flat land to the east of the town of McLaren Vale. The area has more clay above the subsoil than McLaren Vale, however there are some patches of sand similar to that found in Blewitt Springs.  During the summer months, the ‘gully wind’ flows down from the high hills further to the east, helping to cool the fruit.

McLaren Vale The township of McLaren Vale is the traditional home of grape growing and winemaking in the district. Many of the vineyards of the early pioneers were situated where the town itself now stands. Several historic wineries are located in the main street itself including Tatachilla and Thomas Hardy’s Tintara. Many of the roads in the town are named after the original winemaking families.

The town is nestled between two rows of low hills consisting of ironstone and chalky rock with a thin covering of clay loam. The soil is rich in calcium and is slightly alkaline where the soil meets the parent rock.

Sellicks Foothills  Sellicks is the farthest point south of the region directly overlooking the ocean beaches. The foothills extend the length of the base of the Southern Mount Lofty Ranges. The strip of soil here, mostly red loam has been eroded from the ranges. The shallow root zone, conducive to small grape crops, becomes progressively thin in vineyards planted on the hills.  Strong evening gully breezes during summer characterise the area.

 

Well to answer the original question I would definitely say “yes”. The similarities are very pronounced in the top tier Shiraz from this group of makers despite their Shiraz coming from many of the different subregions. The Oak Barrel has a great selection of current vintage and back vintage McLaren Vale Shiraz

Tasting the 2006 Shiraz in a line up of ten different wines, all had a silky, velvety smoothness in the mid palate which gives a high degree of drinking pleasure. I think this is a combination of plush fruit, fine tanins and very correct balancing acidity.

The McLaren Vale wines do develop a higher acidity than Barossa due to the moderating effect of the sea that helps maintain a cooler ripening period for the grapes. For the best value Shiraz of this area see our selection of Hewitson  “L’Oizeau” and “Mad Hatter” Shiraz.

The Shiraz is not overblown fruit bombs as is seen in shiraz from other warmer areas. They are fruit driven but with a leaner elegance.


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Something sweet…

When one considers dessert wine from France, ‘value’ is not a phrase that springs to mind…

Well, move over preconceptions because here is a French sweetie that will soothe your palate and your expensive tastes:

Chateau Raymond-Lafon Sauternes 2005
An estate with a long history, Chateau Raymond-Lafon is one of the anomalies of the sauternes appellation and accordingly has become an underrated cult producer. A mere 5 years old when the 1855 Classification occurred, this Chateau is still to this day unclassified. Taken over in 1972 by the Meslier Family, Lafon was in a state of neglect and in great need of love and care.  At the time Pierre Meslier was manager of D’Yquem, eventually resigning at his post to focus on the rescue of Raymond-Lafon. Pierre transferred a number of winemaking and viticultural techniques learnt at D’Yquem, which has been the source of much controversy in years gone by.

Robert Parker, writing in Bordeaux: A Comprehensive Guide (Dorling Kindersley, 3rd edition, 1998) describes the wines as: ”close to the brilliance and majestic richness of Yquem for less than one-third the price“.

A warm vintage, Pierre Meslier describes this wine as ‘big.’ A appealingly ripe nose with precise aromas that are fine and fresh. This wine offers white nectarine, honey and waxy citrus. The palate is broad and expansive, with generous weight but an elegant tightness that will unfurl given maturation. Voluptuous, the palate offers more sweet toned stone fruits, honey, vanilla, cocunut and a seem of bright citrus. A bright acid core extends and enlivens the palate. A rich and giving wine for immediate consumption or patient cellaring. Buy online NOW


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Boutique wine – Wine excitement you must try.

What does the description “boutique wine” conjure up when you see the words written to describe a vineyard or winery?  Does it mean “small production”, “artisanal” or even “cult”.  I guess that’s really up to the reader.

Here at the Oak Barrel over the past few years, we’ve tried to highlight wines from lesser known areas, like the Southern Highlands of New South Wales or a small area in Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac. We’ve also tasted some wine where only a few hundred cases are made each year such as The Head Wines from the Barossa Valley.  However recently, we’ve been debating… “Is the number of bottles a winery makes or the simple fact that the vineyards happen to be in the middle-of-nowhere enough to make it boutique?”

What we have decided is that neither answer is necessarily correct.

There are a growing number of both young and old wine makers out there who are making excellent wines and some production certainly exceeds what we would imagine as “boutique”. These winemakers are passionate their craft and about producing the best wine from the fruit they can source, if not grown in their own vineyards.

We are not talking about the homogeneous wines from large wine factories that produce hundreds of thousands of cases per year although I am sure that winemakers in these facilities always try to make the best they can. We are talking about a passion.

It’s rare to turn around a bottle and across the back label read “We really care about what’s inside here”.

Perhaps boutique is more a state of mind than a number of bottles.  It’s more of an attitude than a location.  Of course, this makes discovering boutique wines a bit more difficult and that’s where the Oak Barrel comes in.

So, what does it mean to you for a wine to be boutique?  Do you expect it to be better, worse, different, new, strange… or maybe nothing at all?  Does it matter to you if the wine is boutique or not when you buy it?

We think the excitement is in seeking out and trying something different especially with your friends. Discussing the wine and of course enjoying it. A thoroughly rewarding experience.

 


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Nascetta (Nas-Cetta)

One of the best things about wine is that there is always a new grape variety to discover.

There are literally thousands of varieties in the world, each more difficult to pronounce than the last. New varieties are still being discovered (or re-discovered) even today. In some countries you cant walk five meters without coming across a variety you have never heard of. Some varieties, although once well regarded, fade out of fashion only to be re-discovered again. Nascetta is one such variety.

A white variety originating in the Novello commune of Piemonte (famously part of the Barolo DOCG), Nascetta had been considered one of the regions great varieties. In one book from the 1800’s its wines were even described as “tending towards art”. However as a premium variety that could not be used for cheap bulk wine the grape fell out of fashion at the turn of the 20th century. In fact Nascetta had fallen so far out of fashion the variety itself was being threatened with extinction.

While in previous centuries Nascetta had been regarded as a noble grape, by the 1990’s it was no longer even considered a legal variety.

The fortunes of the grape have changed however due to the work of Valter Fissore, of the wine estate Elvio Cogno, and a handful of dedicated winemakers. Valter first tried Nascetta in 1991 and liked it so much he went on to produce a wine for his own estate in 1994. For his efforts in attempting to resurrect this lost treasure he was promptly fined by the Italian wine authorities.

As an illegal variety Valter was forced from then on to label his wine as Vino de Tavola (table wine, “officially” the lowest rank in Italian wine.). While the variety was legalized in 2000, it was not until the 2010 vintage that Valter was able to include the word ‘Nascetta’ on the bottle label (Until then he was forced to use the made up name “Anas-cëtta”). Another great champion of the variety is Enrico Rivetto, who is so passionate about the potential of this variety he is increasing plantings.

Today only a few producers make Nascetta, however its rarity and historic reputation has made it a magnet to wine nerds the world over. Not only is the variety interesting but the wine produced can also be very good, with a number of Langhe winemakers getting all misty eyed about the potential of this re-discovered grape.

Recommended Wine:

Elvio Cogno ‘Anas-cëtta’ Nascetta 2010
Langhe Nascetta DOC
“The nose is fine and elegant with just the right intensity. It exudes complex, lingering scents of wild flowers and herbs, of citrus and exotic fruits. The bouquet suggests acacia honey, sage and rosemary.”

Food Suggestions: vegetable dishes, white meats, fish and cream cheese


Posted in Articles & Reviews

Which glass is best for tasting wine?

Here at the Oak Barrel we constantly taste wine to add to our Boutique and extraordinarily good wine selection. Like our Malt Whisky and Craft Beer selection we are always trying to bring our customers something new and different as well as being good value.

What this means there is of necessity a great many glasses in operation at any one time. We have tried most and apart from an expensive brand where each specific grape variety requires a specific glass, we have been very happy with two “universal” tasting glasses. These glasses also represent great value.

The first is the Chef & Sommelier “Open Up” Pro Tasting glass ($19.95) and the second is the Zerrutti Ultimo Taster ($17.95).

We were so impressed with the quality and durability of the “Open Up” that we purchased 400 of these glasses for use at our Oak Barrel tasting events.

The finer Ultimo Taster I have purchased for use at home and no matter what wine I am serving, it does a very good job. I don’t need to buy a different glass for each variety and this has saved a fortune.

 


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Lillet Blanc is back and with it the Vesper Martini

The Oak Barrel once the champion of Lillet Blanc before taken over by Pernod Ricard has again been able to source supplies of this aperitif. It is not really a vermouth as the wine based drink has not been fortified.

Ian Flemming in the novel “Casino Royale”- 1953, created the  ”The Vesper” martini for his character James Bond.

To quote from the book

“A dry martini,” [Bond] said. “One. In a deep champagne goblet.”

“Oui, monsieur.”

“Just a moment. Three measures of Gordon’s, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it’s ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?”

Kina Lillet was a wine based aperitif flavoured with quinine made in Bordeaux in the late 19th century. This was quite bitter (although popular in France at that time) and in 1986 the company changed the recipe to include less quinine and therefore less bitterness. The name had changed some decades before to Lillet Blanc.

The result is a fruitier drink with a pronounced orange flavour. However “The Vesper” is still a favourite. Buy your ingredients now.


 


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Mornington Peninsula – The Ultimate Guide

General Features

This is regarded as being a cool region being at 38 degrees latitude but is not subject to frost during the growing season because of its proximity to large bodies of water. It is surrounded by Bass Strait, Port Phillip Bay and Western Port Bay. The area enjoys good winter rainfall and has dry summers although being close to the ocean there is high relative humidity producing low vine stress. Its southerly position, moderating influence of the bays abundant sunshine hours and long autumn result in its being an area with perhaps the longest and slowest ripening conditions on mainland Australia. This produces fine fruit flavours, and well balanced high acidity and fine tanins.

Peninsula’s rolling landscape ( With Red Hill/Main Ridge having a maximum elevation around 200 meters) means that orientation and aspect are very important. Combine this with the differing soil types and the subregions produce wines of very different character.

The Peninsula can be divided into  four  main subregions depending on soil types 

1. In the Dromana area the surface soil is separated from  the underlying friable well drained clay by a thin, acid cement/sand layer. This is a low altitude area  being a warmer, drier climate, and the light, sandy clay soil is also less vigorous than the more typical rich loam of the region.

2. Around Red Hill and Main Ridge, red soils of volcanic origin predominate; these are very deep and fertile.

3. In the Merricks area there are brown duplex soils.

4. Sandier soils are in evidence at Moorooduc.

Map of Mornington Peninsula showing sub regions

Subregions of Mornington Peninsula

To be continued – Paul Downie


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