One of the best things about wine is that there is always a new grape variety to discover.
There are literally thousands of varieties in the world, each more difficult to pronounce than the last. New varieties are still being discovered (or re-discovered) even today. In some countries you cant walk five meters without coming across a variety you have never heard of. Some varieties, although once well regarded, fade out of fashion only to be re-discovered again. Nascetta is one such variety.
A white variety originating in the Novello commune of Piemonte (famously part of the Barolo DOCG), Nascetta had been considered one of the regions great varieties. In one book from the 1800′s its wines were even described as “tending towards art”. However as a premium variety that could not be used for cheap bulk wine the grape fell out of fashion at the turn of the 20th century. In fact Nascetta had fallen so far out of fashion the variety itself was being threatened with extinction.
While in previous centuries Nascetta had been regarded as a noble grape, by the 1990′s it was no longer even considered a legal variety.
The fortunes of the grape have changed however due to the work of Valter Fissore, of the wine estate Elvio Cogno, and a handful of dedicated winemakers. Valter first tried Nascetta in 1991 and liked it so much he went on to produce a wine for his own estate in 1994. For his efforts in attempting to resurrect this lost treasure he was promptly fined by the Italian wine authorities.
As an illegal variety Valter was forced from then on to label his wine as Vino de Tavola (table wine, “officially” the lowest rank in Italian wine.). While the variety was legalized in 2000, it was not until the 2010 vintage that Valter was able to include the word ‘Nascetta’ on the bottle label (Until then he was forced to use the made up name “Anas-cëtta”). Another great champion of the variety is Enrico Rivetto, who is so passionate about the potential of this variety he is increasing plantings.
Today only a few producers make Nascetta, however its rarity and historic reputation has made it a magnet to wine nerds the world over. Not only is the variety interesting but the wine produced can also be very good, with a number of Langhe winemakers getting all misty eyed about the potential of this re-discovered grape.
Recommended Wine:
Elvio Cogno ‘Anas-cëtta’ Nascetta 2010
Langhe Nascetta DOC
“The nose is fine and elegant with just the right intensity. It exudes complex, lingering scents of wild flowers and herbs, of citrus and exotic fruits. The bouquet suggests acacia honey, sage and rosemary.”
Food Suggestions: vegetable dishes, white meats, fish and cream cheese
