Warning – the following information may shock you: Believe it or not, I wasn’t always the crazed whisky nut that I am today. (Joel our UK Whisky Ambassador)
On the Whisky Trail in Scotland
The 2nd September 2009 was a memorable day. I had just started working at the Oak Barrel and Simon sent me off for my first encounter with single malts at an Islay whisky masterclass. That night my Facebook status read “Joel learnt about Whisky today. He learnt it tastes terrible”. But even though I spat every whisky out in disgust, the class did plant a seed of interest and I wondered how people could be so passionate about something so unpleasant. However, if you had told me that day that in just two years time I would be taking off on a whisky odyssey around Scotland and to Whisky Live Paris, I would have laughed a Laphroaig – smelling laugh in your face.
But my tastebuds have been bombarded with more whiskies than I can count in the last two years, and sure enough, this (Northern Hemisphere) summer I found myself standing at Glasgow Airport ready to kick off the whisky adventure. I hired a car with two female friends, neither of whom are whisky fans, so I had to cut them a deal – I didn’t care how many modern art galleries or shopping expeditions I would be forced to endure, as long as there was a good number of distilleries on the itinerary, and someone else did the driving, leaving me free to taste all the whisky I could get my hands on!
Deal accepted. Here we go:
The Oban Distillery overlooking the seaside
First stop was a visit to Oban Distillery*. Any town with a distillery right smack bang in the middle is alright by me. In fact, the distillery is older than the town itself, at 217 years old compared to Oban’s 200! The town sprung up around the distillery, originally as a working port town, but these days it is more of a tourist mecca with thousands of people filing through every day, lapping up the sea air and consuming vast amounts of fish and chips. Just don’t drop any of your chips or you will be instantly swarmed by freakishly huge seagulls that are surely the direct descendants of pterodactyls!
The tours of the distillery are great, with a couple of drams thrown in and a Glencairn glass to keep. Carol Bennett, the Brand Home Manager, gave me special permission to take a few photos and even starred in a great little video overview. Check it out below. I wish I could say that the annoying machinery sound in the background was the working still house, but it was actually an amateur tourist doing his best Austin Powers impression in the laneway adjacent to the distillery.
As for the whisky, the Oban 14 Year Old has always been one of my favourites, and I love the way Oban’s sea air contributes a great salty element to the whisky contrasting well with honey and citrus notes, all wrapped in wisps of peat smoke. I actually credit this whisky for giving me a taste for peat smoke and setting me on a path for Islay appreciation. I also had the chance to sample the Oban Distiller’s Edition, which undergoes a second maturation in Montilla fino sherry casks, ramping up the richness of the fruit and contributing nutty notes and an oaky dryness to the finish. The Oban seems to integrate well with the Fino character, making this bottling well worth a look for sherry fans.
That Talisker is how old?
A couple of days later and we pulled up to the Talisker Distillery on the Isle of Skye, a place of pilgrimage for many whisky fans around the world. So many in fact, that I only just managed to squeeze onto the last tour of the day, and just make it back to our accommodation before the dreaded midges attacked. With so many people around there was no time for any filming, and photography was strictly forbidden. Or so they told me…when the guide’s back was turned I did take a quick photo.
The whiskies from Talisker need little introduction: smoky, peppery, spicy, and mouth-wateringly delicious. I reckon the Tali 10 deserves a spot in any collection. Another bottling worth trying is the 57° North, which takes everything great about Talisker and beefs it up to a punchy 57% alcohol. But it holds the alcohol well and is surprisingly smooth, showing clear pepper and chilli flavours with waves of woodsmoke on the nose and palate. A drop of water will coax a touch of sweetness out of the glass. It’s the perfect warming dram for cold winter nights… or the cold summer nights they have on the Isle of Skye. These are casks from 1979, making them 31 years old. By now all the Talisker buffs are shouting “What’s going on!? The oldest expression is the 30 year old!”. Obviously the master blender has something special up his sleeve. Hopefully there will be some more news on that one soon.
One of my favourite things about Scotland is that all these great whiskies, that can be so hard to get a hold of in Australia, are standard fare in any local pub. And while I sit in these pubs doing my bit for the Scottish economy, it was hard not to think back to the 2nd of September, 2009 and laugh a Talisker – smelling laugh…
* To be totally accurate, first stop was actually Glasgow’s Botanical Gardens, but quite frankly, who cares?
McHenry Hohnen is a joint family run enterprise between the Hohnen family (headed by David, famous for having set up Cape Mentelle and Cloudy Bay) and Murray McHenry who has been growing grapes in Margaret River since 1984. The estate’s philosophies extend to minimal interference with the wine, respect for their land and their unique terroir. It is this reverence for individual sites that shows in the passion, depth and finesse of their wines. While not certified organic, they use organic practices, which means that pesticides and herbicides find no place in the production of their wine. David Hohnen is not inclined to becoming certified organic either; it is his firm belief that it is the mass-produced wines using extended intervention that should be certified. A fantastic producer of growing acclaim with fantastic quality Margaret River vino…
McHenry Hohnen SSB 2010 The wine has a complex nose of honeysuckle, gooseberry and green apple with grassy undertones. The palate shows juicy lime with an attractive mineral freshness. A classic example from the Margaret River that should match everything from seafood to Thai food.
McHenry Hohnen ‘Rolling Stone’ Red Blend 2008 Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot A medium bodied style of Bordeaux blend from one of the Margaret River’s emerging stars. The wine has aromas of dark fruit, chocolate and plum with notes of spice. The palate is smooth and textured with earthy notes and a long finish. The four varieties come together beautifully to produce a balanced and elegant wine with plenty of depth and complexity. A personal favourite.
Last week I attended a Riesling tasting at the Tokonoma restaurant in Surry Hills, and while the wines weren’t anything to write home (or a blog!) about, it took one look over the bar at the whisky collection to know that the afternoon would be saved. The first bottle that caught my eye was a Port Ellen 25 year old, and while it is rare to see a bottle from this legendary distillery, I wasn’t quite drunk enough to outlay the $50+ asked for a dram, so a taste from the lost Islay distillery would have to wait.
I moved onto the range of Japanese malts, which included some great old Hibiki and
Yamazakis. But I had to try the Nikka From The Barrel, a heavy hitting blend that has been recommended to me time and time again by a number of our whisky fanatics at the shop. Weighing in at 51.4% abv I thought some water on the side would be a smart idea. The water was left untouched. The smoothness of the whisky at this alcohol amazed me. There is plenty of toasty oak on the nose, mixed with citrus peel, spices and over it all a lovely waft of smoke. Julian made mention that there was an element to the nose that reminded him of a bourbon. On the palate it has that viscous, oily texture that I love. Flavours of spice, nuts, sweet malt lead into fruity notes and a long, powerful and warming finish.
I reckon a cask strength of this quality and at this price is a steal. This great whisky is usually very difficult to find in Australia, so the good news is we’ve just imported another batch. But be warned, they never last long on our shelf so get in quick because there are only a dozen bottles available this time around. Actually…make that eleven. I’m buying one for myself. (JE)
In 1989, two visionaries, Jean Paul DeJoria (owner of Paul Mitchell Hair) and Martin Crowley set out with a singular goal: produce the world’s finest and first ultra-premium tequila.
Since day one, Patrón Tequila has always started with 100% pure Weber blue agave—harvested, roasted, crushed, distilled and bottled—in the hills of Jalisco, Mexico. Employing traditional techniques and modern technology, Patrón has refined and perfected the art of making tequila.
Under the guidance of Master Distiller Francisco Alcaraz, Patrón has continued along the path of excellence—focusing on the liquid in the bottle, steeped in tradition and produced with steadfast dedication—Francisco, along with a group of dedicated workers, makes Patrón stand out amongst other high- quality tequilas.
Patron Silver
Patron Reposado
Patron Anejo
Patron XO Cafe
When: Thursday 29th September Time: 6 – 8pm Where: in-store at The Oak Barrel
Join Nelson from Vinedrops as he opens for tasting his Collection Shiraz and Chardonnay from Margaret River, and and Luxe Shiraz and Chardonnay from Adelaide Hills.
The Collection Shiraz 2008 – Margaret River
The Collection Chardonnay 2009 – Margaret River
The Luxe Shirax 2008 – Adelaide Hills
The Luxe Chardonnay 2009 -Adelaide Hills
Come and meet Nelson from virtual winery Vinedrops and get first hand why he has chosen these varieties from these regions.
The Club’s main focus is on providing quality wine and whisky information, experiences and products to its members. Through regular events, members can expand their palates and develop their inner wine and whisky buff!
One of our aims is for members to gradually acquire a quality wine cellar that will be enjoyed for years to come. With this in mind the monthly cases on offer have been carefully selected based on their attributes rather than price point.
To join, members need to fill in the attached application form and pay a one off joining fee of $25.
The club is perfect for those wishing to…
Increase their wine knowledge,
Build a quality wine cellar,
Attend wine events and courses.
Membership Benefits include:
A membership card
10% discount on all products purchased in store*
Exclusive member rates for selected wine events
Pre-release invitations to all Cellar Room Tasting Events
Pre-release invitations to all wine education courses
An exclusive invitation to the annual Cellar Club dinner
Quality advice on how to build your wine cellar
Complimentary subscription to our newsletters
* To remain eligible for the 10% discount each member must spend a minimum of $100 at the Oak Barrel annually. 10% discount applies unless otherwise stated.
Nick O’Leary is the nephew of one of Clare Valley’s favourite sons David (O’Leary Walker) and one could be forgiven for thinking that nephew Nick would also craft his wines from the same region. Fortuntately for the Canberra region, Nick O’Leary is born and bred in our Nation’s Capital, and his take on shiraz and riesling are no less impressive.
The Nick O’Leary Brand is built on the simple premise that fruit quality is everything. Nick spends a lot of time scouring the region for special parcels of fruit, and has secured long term relationships with Canberra’s finest growers as a result. Producing some of Australia’s finest shiraz and riesling, the successful vignerons of the Canberra District are those that capture the cool climate characters of the grapes. Natural acidity in all wines is a start, but floral; delicate and citric Rieslings and Spicy; medium-weight; elgant Shirazes are hallmarks. Nick O’Leary is leading the charge in being truly proud of the region. Making “Canberra Wines” rather than trying to replicate styles from warmer climes.
He is a young winemaker to watch, and his wines are sublimely priced considering their quality and their constant recognition in shows and in the press.
We visited Nick in Canberra earlier this year on the Oak Barrel Road Trip and were blown away by the quality of his wines, and the passion he exudes when he talks about them, the industry and his upcoming projects. We left with no doubt that he knows what varieties best suit the region, how to source the best grapes available and not least, how to make great wine. I guess the fact that he has received a number of accolades from the likes of Huon Hooke & James Halliday means that we’re not the only ones impressed…
This month we’re thrilled to have Nick O’Leary as our Producer of the Month, and we’re excited to be able to share some of his projects with you over the coming weeks.
This month we will travel around Scotland starting in the east, Speyside with the anCnoc 12 year old, then off to the islands off the west coast, specifically, the Isle of Mull to taste the Tobermory 15 year old, and finishing just south on Islay with the Kilchoman 2010 Summer edition.
anCnoc (formerly Knockdh):
A fine single malt whisky that is created using traditional production methods. The end result is a lighter tasting single malt that doesn’t compromise on quality. The anCnoc 12 year old is light and yet complex, smooth yet challenging, delivering a surprise dram that has something for everyone. Revealing soft, aromatic notes on the nose, with a hint of honey and lemon in the foreground, the taste is sweet to start with, an appetizing fruitiness and a long smooth finish.
Tobermory Distillery:
Built in 1798, this is the only distillery on the Isle of Mull and one of the oldest in Scotland. Its old world charm reflects the Tobermory spirit to do things the old fashioned way, by hand. For those fortunate enough to uncover it, the Tobermory 15 year old is an exquisitely handcrafted single malt. Tobermory’s unique essence and authenticity is encapsulated and bottled at natural colour, un chill-filtered, and at cask strength of 46.3%.
Kilchoman Summer 2010: Is the fourth general release bottling from Islay’s newest distillery. This is a departure from the recent styles in that it is matured entirely in fresh and re-fill bourbon barrels. Kilchoman Summer 2010 release displays the best of the grass-roots traditions of malt whisky distilling – from barley, grown, malted, distilled, and matured at the distillery, to the bottle. It displays strong peaty aromas and a complex blend of pear drops, citrus and hints of mango. On the palate the initial sweetness is followed by peat smoke and mixed fruits with a long, clean, refreshing finish.
When: Thursday 18th August, 2011 Time: From 6.00pm till 8.00pm Where: In-store at The Oak Barrel
We have managed to secure an allocation from an exciting producer in the Barossa, Ruggabellus who has been receiving considerable praiseworthy press lately. We have a limited quantity of the following wines:
I am not sure I do Dirk Meure the man justice when I speak of his ‘Natural Wines’ as some of the most interesting, stimulating wines I have tasted.
Julian, our wine educator at the Oak Barrel and I, were on a mission to find some special wines from Tasmania to bring back to the shop.
Through friends who live in Hobart, I had heard Dirks name mentioned as someone who was making exceptional wine with passion and someone I had to meet. Eventually I hunted him down and found, after our initial correspondence via email, that he had known The Oak Barrel in it’s hey day back in the 70′s. He was pleased to hear that our present team were working on bringing the store back to it’s former glory.
The ocean from the vineyard
Dirk hails from a frantic and despairing background in Holland, born into the European conflict of the 1940′s. He immigrated to Tasmania with his parents in 1950 but rose to the academic surface becoming school captain, lecturer in academic law at the University of NSW and advisor to the Attorney General of Tasmania on prison reform. In passing I have noted his passion for classical music, especially the Gregorian chant. Indeed on the day I visited him in his small one hectare vineyard on the shores of the d’Entrecasteaux Channel, overlooking Bruny Island, I found him pruning the vines with his headphones on listening to music.
This is a pristine area of Tasmania, the natural light shines for long hours of the day as the fruit of the vine is nurtured and ripens to full flavour without the degree of sugar to overwhelm the wines with alcohol.
The vineyard occupies a north south slope on sandy loam. Although the soil drains well it retains enough moisture to be grown dry. No chemicals apart from occasional sulphur are used in the vineyard. Dirk practices biodynamic principles, uses horn silica (preparation 501) and horn manure (preparation 500) as well as picking on the appropriate lunar days.
Light on the vineyard
The vines are planted with an ultra high density of 8000 vines per ha as per Burgundy, with the majority of the vineyard given over to pinot noir. This produces only half to three quarters of a kilo per vine thereby allowing maximum concentration of flavours. The remainder of the vineyard is planted with chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot gris, all of unusual quality.
The winemaking is also an intellectual exercise. Wines are made using wild yeasts, time in barrels and minimal handling so as to develop an intensity of flavour. There is no rush to get the wines out of barrel so that the next vintage can use them.
Only seven barrels of pinot noir are produced in a good year so that everything can be hand done.
To use a broad brush to describe the wines is unwise but I will try.
A whole years production, including 7 barrels of pinot noir
The aromas are intense and complex. Each has clear fruit of the variety with the complexity of the natural yeast ferment, and lees contact. They are powerful wines and the intensity and length of the palate are truly evocative of fine French wines.
The Oak Barrel has been able to obtain a small allocation of these remarkable wines and hopefully Dirk will be able to join us for a tasting in the not too distant future. Please enquire now if you want to share our allocation.
